Winter is coming! And even if it’s a beautiful season, you’re starting to worry for your plants and wonder: what’s going to happen to my indoor garden designIndeed, during the winter, most plants go through a period of dormancy. They cannot stand withstand freezing temperatures and diminished light for a long period of time, so they do what animals do in winter: they hibernate until warmer seasons arrive. While some plants can keep their healthy state during winter, the low temperatures and the lack of light affect the others…

Don’t panic! Winter does not mean over. If we spend more time indoors during winter, why can’t it be the same for our plants? And if you are into interior decoration, you have probably noticed that one of the current decoration trends integrates green plants inside the house: in the kitchen, in the bathroom, on a shelf in the living room…it’s really pretty! Did you know that plants help purify the air and contribute to both relaxation and productivity? Just imagine yourself sipping a hot drink under a blanket, and around you, plants adding a touch of greenery and nature right inside. We love the idea!

Our 8 favorite indoor plants to grow this winter

Aloe Vera


Aloe Vera is one easy plant to grow indoors. As a tropical plant, it requires a warm temperature, but it does not need direct light. That is why you can have it inside your house, next to a window. Plus, it likes to be dry so water it only once a week. And as you may know, Aloe Vera has many medicinal properties: the juice of its leaves generally soothes burns and it’s full of vitamins and minerals.

There are hundreds of varieties of aloe plants, which are indigenous to Africa and a few neighboring areas. Aloes come in many varieties that range in size from a few inches to tree heights of 30 to 40 feet, in the case of the kokerboom (or quiver tree). They also come in many colors and shapes, including orange-hued, purple-tinged, and with various spine configurations. Some aloes also flower. Though many might think of the aloe plant as a cactus, it is actually a succulent. We’ll consider the aloe barbadensis, commonly known as aloe vera, here.

Where to Plant
Unless the climate where you live is extremely mild (never gets below 50ºF/10ºC), it is best to keep your aloe vera indoors. They are hardy in zones 9 to 11, but are most commonly enjoyed as house plants. Because they are composed of so much water, aloe veras are extremely susceptible to frost. Think of the indigenous climate of your plant and you’ll know its ideal conditions. In the case of aloe veras, they love to be in the sun (though they will tolerate some hours of shade) and do well in dry climates.
How to Plant
Aloe vera plants are readily available anywhere you can buy plants. Soil should be well-drained (a cactus mix works well) and the pot should have enough room for the plant, specifically its root ball, to grow. When re-potting, choose a container that’s wider than the previous, not deeper, and with extra room equivalent to 3 to 5 times the size of the current root ball. If you are able to plant outdoors, this should be done in spring.
How to Care For
Aloe veras are tolerant of dry conditions, but that doesn’t mean we shouldn’t water them! In the summer months, soak them thoroughly (make sure soil has good drainage), but allow them to dry very well between waterings (dry to a depth of 1 to 2 inches). Fertilization is best achieved with worm casings and compost teas, according to Love To Know: Home & Garden. During winter months, when the plant is dormant, water less frequently, if at all.

Snake Plant


Snake Plant is probably the perfect houseplant since it almost never needs water and it can be neglected for weeks and still looks fresh. It does not even need high level of light to survive and it is able to keep the air inside your home clean, removing toxins such as formaldehyde and benzene. The perfect one, isn’t it?

If a prize were available for the most tolerant plant, snake plant (Sansevieria) would certainly be one of the frontrunners. Snake plant care is very straightforward. These plants can be neglected for weeks at a time; yet, with their strappy leaves and architectural shape, they still look fresh. Additionally, they can survive low light levels, drought and have few insect problems. NASA research has even shown that snake plants are able to help keep the air inside your home clean, removing toxins such as formaldehyde and benzene. In short, they are the perfect houseplants.

Snake Plant Info – How to Grow a Snake Plant

Growing snake plant from cuttings is relatively easy. The most important thing to remember is that they can easily rot, so a free draining soil needs to be used. Leaf cuttings are the usual method but probably the easiest way to propagate snake plants is by dividing. The roots produce fleshy rhizomes, which can simply be removed with a sharp knife and potted up. Again, these will need to go into a free draining soil.
Snake Plant Care After they have been propagated, the care of snake plants is very easy. Put them in indirect sunlight and don’t water them too much, especially during the winter. In fact, it’s better to let these plants dry out some between waterings. A little general purpose fertilizer can be used if the plants are in a pot, and that’s about it.
Types of Snake Plant There are around 70 different species of snake plant, all native to tropical and sub-tropical regions of Europe, Africa, and Asia. They are all evergreen and can grow anywhere from 8 inches to 12 feet high. The most commonly used species for gardening is Sansevieria trifasciata, often known as mother-in-law’s tongue. However, if you’d like something a little different, the following species and cultivars are worth looking out for:

Types of Snake Plant There are around 70 different species of snake plant, all native to tropical and sub-tropical regions of Europe, Africa, and Asia. They are all evergreen and can grow anywhere from 8 inches to 12 feet high. The most commonly used species for gardening is Sansevieria trifasciata, often known as mother-in-law’s tongue. However, if you’d like something a little different, the following species and cultivars are worth looking out for:

Sansevieria ‘Golden Hahnii’ – This species has short leaves with yellow borders.

Cylindrical snake plant, Sansevieria cylindrical – This snake plant has round, dark green, striped leaves and can grow to 2 to 3 feet.

Sansevieria trifasciata ‘Twist’ – As the name suggests, this cultivar has twisted leaves. It is also striped horizontally, has yellow variegated edges and grows to about a 14 inches tall.

Rhino Grass, Sansevieria desertii – This one grows to around 12 inches with succulent red tinted leaves. White Snake Plant, Sansevieria trifasciata ‘Bantel’s Sensation’ – This cultivar grows to around 3 foot tall and has narrow leaves with white vertical stripes.

Hopefully, this article has helped to explain how to grow a snake plant. They really are the easiest of plants to look after, and will happily reward your lack of attention by giving clean air to your home and a little cheer in the corner of any room.

Staghorn Fern


Staghorn Fern looks imposing but is easy to grow. If it gets low to medium light and moderate moisture, it will thrive. It usually grows mounted on a piece of wood or in a basket so, as a vertical display, it fits well in a house. Staghorn ferns (Platycerium spp.) have an out-of-this world appearance. The plants have two types of leaves, one of which resembles the horns of a large herbivore. The plants grow outdoors in warm season locations and indoors elsewhere. Mounted or in a basket is how to grow a staghorn fern, because they are epiphytic, growing in trees generally. Staghorn fern care relies on careful light, temperature and moisture monitoring.
Staghorn Fern Information There are 17 different species of staghorn fern (Platycerium alcicorne) – which in addition to common staghorn fern, go by a number of other common names that include elkhorn fern and antelope ears. Each one has the antler-like foliage as well as a flat basal leaf. The flat leaves are infertile and turn brown and papery with age. They overlap onto a mounting surface and provide stability for the fern. The foliar fronds may droop or be erect, depending upon the variety of fern. Staghorn ferns produce spores as reproductive organs, which are borne on the on the edges of the lobed antler type fronds. They do not get flowers and they are generally not rooted in soil.

How to Grow a Staghorn Fern

Growing staghorn ferns is easy. If they get low to medium light and moderate moisture, they will thrive. In fact, whether grown indoors or outside, provide moderate moisture and a humus rich medium when growing staghorn ferns. Outdoor plants should be located in partial shade or low light conditions for the best growth, while indoor plants need bright indirect light. Staghorn ferns are usually grown mounted on a piece of wood or in a basket. They will need a little mound of peat, compost or other organic matter piled up under the plant. Tie the plant onto the growing medium with panty hose or plant strips.
Read more at Gardening Know How: Staghorn Fern Information And Care:

How To Grow A Staghorn Fern 
Growing staghorn ferns is easy. If they get low to medium light and moderate moisture, they will thrive. In fact, whether grown indoors or outside, provide moderate moisture and a humus rich medium when growing staghorn ferns. Outdoor plants should be located in partial shade or low light conditions for the best growth, while indoor plants need bright indirect light.Staghorn ferns are usually grown mounted on a piece of wood or in a basket. They will need a little mound of peat, compost or other organic matter piled up under the plant. Tie the plant onto the growing medium with panty hose or plant strips.

Growing Staghorn Ferns from Pups

Over time the fern will produce pups that will fill in around the main plant. Ferns don’t produce seeds like most plants, so the best way to start a new staghorn fern is from its pups. Use a sharp, sterile knife to cut the pup from the parent plant. Wrap the end of the cut in damp sphagnum moss and tie it on to a piece of wood or bark loosely. Provide the same care of staghorn ferns that you would for an adult fern.
Care of Staghorn Ferns Care of staghorn ferns relies on careful humidity, light and temperature control. The ferns can live many years with good care and will get several hundred pounds in their natural habitat. Home grown ferns are generally much smaller but they can be in the family for decades. Good staghorn fern care requires frequent watering, but allow the plant medium to dry out in between.



If you want to add a color touch to your home, Bromeliad does a great job. It has colorful, long-lasting inflorescence and brilliantly colored foliage. It does not need full sunlight and actually grows better in shady spots so a bathroom is the perfect place to set your bromeliad up. Know that bromeliad is not a thirsty plant; only water it when it looks very dry.

Bromeliad is the name for a family of plants that is incredibly diverse. There are 2,877 different species of bromeliads. And just about as many ways to care for them as there are different varieties.  That being said there are a few things that will remain true for the majority of bromeliads and general principles of bromeliad care that will remain consistent.  The following are tips for both indoor and outdoor bromeliad care and maintenance


Almost all bromeliads are native to tropical climates. Their original habitat is humid and they grow on shady forest floors or attached to trees. This means bromeliads are adapted for warm, wet, shady climates. If you live in an area that will not freeze, you can safely plant your bromeliad outside. However, make sure you have a space that will not expose your bromeliad to large amounts of direct sunlight.  A bromeliad can experience leaf burn if exposed to too much direct light. Different varieties have different tolerances for exposure to sun. Monitor your site to determine how much direct sun it receives and at what time of day and then purchase a bromeliad whose needs align with your site specifications. It is also important that your bromeliad remains moist.
If you live in an arid climate there are some bromeliads that are better suited to handle dry air. You may need to mist a bromeliad regularly if the humidity is less than ideal (60%).  Be sure to mist when your plant’s leaves are dry, but before they are exposed to any direct sun.


Bromeliads also make great indoor plants. They have few needs and very few problem pests. With the right care, you can enjoy bromeliads in your home or office year round.


Bromeliads are adapted to withstand drought, but are much less tolerant of being over-watered which can cause root rot. It is important that your bromeliad is planted in a medium that allows for fast drainage.  Each time you water the potting medium, thoroughly soak it so that the water runs from the drainage holes. This will remove any salt build up in the potting media. Don’t water the bromeliad again until at least the top two inches of potting media are dry. Any more often than this and the plant will be sitting in too much water and could succumb to root rot.
Many bromeliads also have a tank. This is the part of the plant where the leaves meet together and form what looks like a cup. Bromeliads also take in water through their central tank. Fill the tank with water, preferably rainwater, and be sure to flush it regularly to prevent water stagnation. If you have an epiphytic bromeliad, meaning your plant is growing on a rock, tree bark, or somehow mounted instead of potted in medium, watering is a bit different. You can simply keep the plant moist by misting it regularly.
Note: It is important to never use a metal container to water a bromeliad. Bromeliads are very sensitive to metal and the results could be devastating to your plant.


Just like bromeliads that are grown outdoors, indoor bromeliads also prefer 60% humidity. This level of humidity can be very difficult to maintain especially in a home that is being heated by a furnace in the winter season. There are several options for increasing humidity levels.

  • Run a humidifier near your plant.
  • Create a humidity tray. Simply take a shallow plant saucer, or tray, and fill it with small pebbles or decorative stones. Fill the tray with water to just below the stones’ surface. Then set your potted bromeliads on or near the tray. The water will add moisture to the air and increase humidity in that area. If you set the container on top to the tray, it is important to make sure it is not setting in the water. This will keep the bromeliad’s roots too wet and can result in root rot.
  • Place a few more plants in the vicinity. Transpiration, the process in which a plant converts water into a vapor and releases it into the atmosphere, will help raise the humidity of the immediate area.
  • Use a spray bottle to mist the plant regularly. This requires a bit more diligence but is fairly simple.

 Pots and Potting Media

Pots and potting media can directly affect the moisture levels in the bromeliad. Plastic pots tend to hold moisture for a longer period of time. If you are in an arid region or raising you bromeliad in a heated home, you may want to consider a plastic container to house your plant in. Unglazed clay pots are porous and allow water to seep out. If you are living in a very humid area, you may want to consider this type of container so your plant doesn’t stay overly wet. You will want to make sure that there is some sort of saucer or pad underneath to catch the seeping water otherwise you could end up damaging the the floor or furniture the pot sits on. Regardless the type of container, never use soil when potting your bromeliad. It is too dense and will not allow for the quick drainage that bromeliads require. Instead, use potting mixes specially formulated for bromeliads or mix your own using porous materials.


Bromeliads have a wide range of light tolerances. Some varieties prefer bright, indirect light while other thrive in almost constant shade. For the most part, bromeliads thrive in bright, sunny spaces. However, exposure to direct sunlight for an extended period of time can cause damage to the leaves. In the winter, a south facing window is ideal.


Bromeliads require little fertiliziing. Occasionally you will want to use a water soluble fertilizer. Never place fertilizer in a bromeliads central tank. Instead, fertilize around the bromeliad’s base. Air plants can benefit from a liquid fertilizer dilluted to 1/2 to 1/4 strength. Simply spray the mixture over your air plant. Many people try to encourage faster growth with the use of fertilizer. But because bromeliads are slow growing plants, too much fertilizer can cause the leaves to become leggy and vibrant colors to diminish.


Most bromeliads flower only once in their lifetime. The brightly colored leaves that are often mistaken for flowers are actually called bracts, a leaf-like structure from which an inflorescence may grow. A bromeliad grows by added new leaves to the center of the plant. At some point, the center will become crowded and new leaves will no longer have room to form. At this point, the bromeliad will focus its energy on producing pups, also known as offsets. The bloom on a bromeliad can last several months and the colorful bracts even longer.You can cut back the flower once it becomes unsightly. Use a sharp, sterilized instrument and cut the spike back as far as possible without injuring the remaining portion of the plant. Sadly, the mother plant will eventually die. But hopefully not before producing offspring to continue its legacy.

Following a few simple steps can keep you enjoying bromeliads, both indoors and out, for several seasons.

  • Provide bright light without direct sun exposure
  • Maintain optimal humidity
  • Keep air flowing around the plants
  • Make sure the plants stay moist but not soggy
  • Provide adequate drainage
  • Fertilize sparingly

It is always important to read the specifications for your particular type of bromeliad. Bromeliad care requirements can vary and you may find that you will need to tweak a few things such as light exposure or watering techniques for optimal growth.



Succulent is a plant from the desert so it does not require a lot of water but it sure needs a lot of bright, indirect light.

If you long for indoor greenery but haven’t succeeded with houseplants, consider succulents. They are easy-to-please houseguests and survive indoor conditions with minimal effort.

Succulents survive dry indoor environments thanks to special adaptations – fleshy leaves, thick stems or enlarged roots – that allow the plants to hoard water. Most people are familiar with cacti, which are a type of succulent. But succulents also include a host of other plants grown primarily for eye-catching foliage.

Strong, distinct leaf shapes give these succulents striking textures that transform them into living sculptures for interior rooms. Learn how to grow these undemanding plants.

Why Succulents?

Succulents make great indoor plants because they’re adapted to survive dry conditions. In winter especially, homes offer dry interior air to houseplants, which is why many don’t survive. Low relative humidity isn’t a houseplant’s friend. Succulents, though, with their water-storing ways, endure dry air without ugly side effects.


Most succulents, in an indoor setting, will crave the brightest light possible, especially during winter in northern climates. Place them near a south- or east-facing window.

This same setting works during the warmer parts of the year. Alternately, you can shift succulents outside during spring and summer. Choose a protected location where plants receive bright, indirect light. Research your succulent selection to ensure you’re providing ideal light.


In their native settings, succulents typically grow in sandy, well-drained soil. Duplicate that footing for potted plants by blending your own soil mix – half potting soil, half sand. To test how well the mixture drains, wet it, then squeeze it in your hand. If it falls apart, you have a mixture succulents will love.


When you purchase a succulent, slip the pot into a pretty cachepot, and you’ll have instant décor. Or you can transplant these easy-grows-it plants into ornamental containers. Most houseplant succulents have shallow roots, so you can tuck them into shallow bowls or squat pots.

Succulents can’t stand overly moist soil. Make sure containers have drainage holes to allow excess water to exit.


The fastest way to kill a succulent is with too much TLC – and too much water. Unlike typical houseplants, succulents stash water in their leaves or roots, which act like a reservoir to slake the plant’s thirst. To avoid overwatering, water only enough to keep leaves from withering.

Clues that a plant needs watering include shrinking or puckering leaves or normally shiny leaves that appear dull. If you suspect it’s time to water, shove a finger into soil two knuckles deep to make sure it’s dry.

When you water, apply enough so it runs out drainage holes. Empty the drainage saucer so plants don’t sit in water overnight. About 95 percent of houseplants need soil to dry out almost completely before watering.

FertilizerSucculents experience strongest growth during spring and summer. Growth slows in fall, and winter is a time of rest. Fertilize lightly or not at all during winter. In warmer months, feed plants three or four times. Use a standard houseplant fertilizer for most succulents, but keep in mind that it is easy to over fertilize these plants. In most cases, they should be fed lightly or about half what you would feed a regular houseplant.Planting PartnersYou can combine several succulents in the same container to create a dish garden. The secret to success lies in plant selection. Be sure you’re mixing and matching plants with similar growth rates and care requirements.

Zebra Plant


Because it is a tropical plant that originally grows in rain forests habitats, Zebra plant is doing well inside a house and especially in a bathroom because it needs high level of humidity. It will add some personality to a house since it has beautiful dramatic foliage with a bit of color.

Zebra Plants are extremely showy evergreen plants with pairs of shiny, 6″-9″, lance shaped green leaves,
boldly variegated with cream, white or silvery striped veins.
Under ideal conditions, they can be persuaded to bloom and will produce long lasting spikes of brightly colored
yellow, waxy bracts with tubular white, yellow or orange flowers protruding from each bract.
Even when they are out of bloom, Zebra Plants make very attractive, foliage house plants.
In their native Brazil, Zebra Plants can grow up to six feet tall and wide,
but as a house plant they can easily be kept at 12″-18″ by pruning.

Zebra Plants are only hardy in zones 11 & 12.
The rest of us will have to be content growing them as house plants.

As with most house plants, the best way of keeping your Zebra Plant happy and healthy
is to try to duplicate the same environment from which they originated.
To be honest, it is pretty hard to replicate a Brazilian jungle without a greenhouse so you may want to consider buying your Zebra Plant and growing it as an annual just to enjoy it for a year or two of beauty.

Growing Requirements for Zebra Plants

The requirements for growing Zebra Plants are much more rigid than with other house plants.
Zebras resent any changes to their environment and will quickly drop their lower leaves if they are exposed to drafts, moved or repotted, or if the temperature or humidity level changes suddenly.

Aphelandras should be grown in bright, indirect light but never in full or unfiltered sun.
Zebra Plants require lots of moisture, and should never be allowed to dry out.
Always use room temperature water that has been allowed to set open for 24 hours or more
to allow chlorine and other chemicals to dissipate.

High humidity is essential for success. Provide additional humidity by setting the plants on shallow trays filled
with moistened pebbles, or use a humidifier, especially during the winter months.
Frequent misting will also help considerably. Wipe leaves often with a damp cloth to keep them glossy.
Your Zebra Plant will grow best in moderate summer temperatures of about 68°-75°
and cooler in the winter, but never below 60°.
Zebra Plants don’t require a dormant period like many plants, but they should be given a rest after blooming,
with slightly cooler temperatures and reduced watering.

Feed your Zebra Plant with a slow release, pelleted fertilizer at the beginning of the growing season,
feed monthly from spring through summer using a half strength solution of a balanced liquid fertilizer.
Zebra Plants can be cut back hard after flowering to control growth.
Check regularly for spider mites and aphids.

Repotting Zebra Plants

Zebra Plants bloom best when they are kept moderately root bound and should only be repotted to rejuvenate the soil in the spring.
Use a porous, well-drained potting mixture with a high peat moss content.
Potting mixes that have been blended for African Violets are ideal!

Propagating Zebra Plants

Zebra plants can be propagated with stem tip cuttings of side shoots taken in the spring or summer. The tops of plants that have lost their lower leaves can also be cut off and rooted.
Dust each cut with a rooting hormone and strike in a peat moss/perlite mix.
Hold in a heated propagating case or a terrarium at 75°.

Spider Plant


As a tropical plant, the Spider plant is easy to grow indoors. Like the Snake Plant, the Spider Plant improves the air quality. It does not like the cold so the average room temperature (65-75°F/18-24°C) suits the plant perfectly. So don’t expose it to a temperature that is below 50°F/10°C. It still requires bright light, but keep it out of direct sunlight to avoid scorched leaves. It also likes humidity so you have to water it occasionally. If its leaves happen to turn brown and crispy, raise the humidity around it. Place your Spider in your bathroom and it will thrive for sure.

The spider plant (Chlorophytum comosum) is considered one of the most adaptable of houseplants and the easiest to grow. This plant can grow in a wide range of conditions and suffers from few problems, other than brown tips. The spider plant is so named because of its spider-like plants, or spiderettes, which dangle down from the mother plant like spiders on a web. Available in green or variegated varieties, these spiderettes often start out as small white flowers.
Gardening Tips for Spider Plants and General Spider Plant Care Caring for spider plants is easy. These tough plants tolerate lots of abuse, making them excellent candidates for newbie gardeners or those without a green thumb. Provide them with well-drained soil and bright, indirect light and they will flourish. Water them well but do not allow the plants to become too soggy, which can lead to root rot. In fact, spider plants prefer to dry out some between waterings.
When caring for spider plants, also take into account that they enjoy cooler temperatures — around 55 to 65 F. (13-18 C.). Spider plants can also benefit from occasional pruning, cutting them back to the base. Since spider plants prefer a semi-potbound environment, repot them only when their large, fleshy roots are highly visible and watering is difficult. Spider plants can be easily propagated as well through division of the mother plant or by planting the small spiderettes.

Spider Plant Spiderettes

As daylight increases in spring, spider plants should begin producing flowers, eventually developing into babies, or spider plant spiderettes. This may not always occur, however, as only mature plants with enough stored energy will produce spiderettes. Spiderettes can be rooted in water or soil, but will generally yield more favorable results and a stronger root system when planted in soil. Ideally, the best method for rooting spider plant spiderettes is by allowing the plantlet to remain attached to the mother plant. Choose a spiderette and place it in a pot of soil near the mother plant. Keep this well watered and once it roots, you can cut it from the mother plant. Alternatively, you can cut off one of the plantlets, place it in a pot of soil, and water generously. Place the pot in a ventilated plastic bag and put this in a bright location. Once the spiderette is well rooted, remove from the bag and grow as usual.
Spider Plant Leaves Browning

If you begin to notice spider plant leaves browning, there’s no need for worry. Browning of leaf tips is quite normal and will not harm the plant. This is often the result of fluoride found in water, which causes salt buildup in the soil. It usually helps to periodically leach plants by giving them a thorough watering to flush out excess salts. Be sure to allow the water to drain out and repeat as needed. It may also help to use distilled water or even rainwater on plants instead of that from the kitchen or outside spigot.

Peace Lily


Also known as a closet plant, Peace Lily is a popular choice for office and homes. It also improves the air quality and it is some of the easiest indoor plants to care for. It enjoys medium to low light and depending on the amount of light, it will develop more or less flowers and white spathes. One common mistake is to overwater the plant. Instead of having a watering schedule, simply check it once a week and see if it’s dry and needs water.

Peace lilies (Spathiphyllum), also known as closet plants, are a popular choice for offices and homes. When it comes to indoor plants, peace lily plants are some of the easiest to care for. But, while peace lily plant care is easy, proper growing conditions are still important. Let’s take a look at the care of peace lilies.

Growing Peace Lily As Houseplants

Peace lilies make excellent houseplants for the home or office. These lovely plants not only brighten up a living space, but are also excellent at cleaning the air of the room they are in. Most commonly, these plants have dark green leaves and white “flowers.” But what most people think of as the flower is actually a specialized leaf bract that grows hooded over the flowers. Like many popular indoor plants, peace lilies enjoy medium to low light. Which kind of light you need to provide will depend more on what you want your peace lily plant to look like. Peace lilies that are placed in more light tend to produce the lovely white spathes and flowers more, while peace lilies in low light will bloom less and will look more like a traditional foliage plant.

Peace Lily Plant Care
One of the most common mistakes in the care of peace lilies is overwatering. Peace lilies are far more tolerant of underwatering than overwatering, which is one of the most common reasons for a peace lily to die. Because of this, you should never water peace lily plants on a schedule. Rather, you should check them once a week to see if they need to be watered. Simply touch the top of the soil to see if it is dry. If it is, water your peace lily. If the soil is still damp, the plant does not need to be watered. Some people will go so far as to wait until their peace lily is starting to droop before watering their plant. As these plants are very drought tolerant, this method does not harm the plant and will prevent overwatering.
Peace lilies do not need frequent fertilizing. Fertilizing with a balanced fertilizer one to two times per year will be enough to keep the plant happy. Peace lilies also benefit from repotting or dividing when they outgrow their containers. Signs that a peace lily plant has outgrown its container include drooping less than a week after being watered and crowded, deformed leaf growth. If you are repotting, move the plant into a pot that is at least 2 inches larger than its current pot. If you are dividing, use a sharp knife to cut through the center of the rootball and replant each half in its on container. Since the wide leaves on peace lilies tend to be a dust magnet, you should either wash or wipe down the leaves at least once a year. This will help it process sunlight better. Washing the plant can be done by either setting it in the bath and giving it a short shower or by placing it in a sink and letting the tap run over the leaves. Alternatively, the leaves of your peace lily plant can also be wiped down with a damp cloth. Avoid using commercial leaf shine products, however, as these can clog the pores of the plant.
Growing plants indoors is definitely a child’s play! Most of them don’t need lots of light and water so you don’t need to move heaven and earth to take care of them. Plus, they all have super cool benefits such as healing or air purifying properties. Besides, they add a bit of nature in a house or an apartment and they are cheaper than any expensive decoration object! Garden design also exists indoors in winter!


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